Sunday, September 14, 2008

Roasted Tomatoes


You Say Tomato….Raw or Cooked There is Nothing Finer


Years ago I was asked to write a book on Potatoes for the Williams-Sonoma Collection. I was initially daunted with how I would come up with 50 recipes. As I worked on the book I discovered that the first 50 would turn out to be just a warm up for many more potato recipe discoveries. It’s the same way with tomatoes; the more recipes I develop the more I want to discover other ways to prepare them.

Fresh ripe tomatoes are the essence of Seriously Simple. Most varieties are at their height of flavor now. Whether it is in a zesty tomato salsa, a multi-colored tomato gazpacho, or as a first course, sliced and layered with fresh mozzarella and a drizzle of olive oil, the fresh raw summer tomato never disappoints. Recently I have found myself at the local farmers market excitedly perusing the tomato bins of different farmers. I love to taste the many varieties that are now available. Beefsteak still remain one of my favorites but now there are also heirlooms, offering exotic flavors and colors.

I find that using heirloom tomatoes are best prepared and served raw. Heirloom tomatoes are old-fashioned varieties that grow best in a small farm environment because they are more delicate. They have thinner skins and can’t take a lot of handling. They have a flavor profile with a spectrum from tart to super sweet. For pure fresh taste, there is nothing as good as a Zebra, Pineapple, Brandywine or Golden Jubilee heirloom tomato, sliced and sprinkled with sea salt and a fruity olive oil splash.

Beefsteak or Roma tomatoes hold up better for cooking. They have a tougher skin and can withstand high heat roasting, sautéing or grilling. The first time I ever tasted roasted tomatoes was at a restaurant called Tetou in a little town in the south of France named Juan les Pins. The meal is still vivid in my mind--- almost-burnt, caramelized tomatoes with a touch of thyme presented in a pottery gratin dish. This was a taste memory I just had to recreate. Through the years I have experimented with this dish and the following is the result of many experiments with oven roasted tomatoes. I have found that using a ceramic gratin dish like the kind made by Le Creuset or Staub gives the best results for evenly caramelized tomatoes.

You can serve these tomatoes for just about any meal. I like to serve these at a brunch alongside scrambled eggs. At a lunch I will serve them at room temperature along with other salads. For dinner they are a marvelous accompaniment to grilled fish, chicken or beef.

The Clever Cook Could:
• Select tomatoes that are vine-ripened for the best flavor.
• Remember to store tomatoes at room temperature. If they are not quite ripe, store them in a sunny place to hasten the ripeness.
• Tomatoes vary widely in the amount of juice they exude, so just add a bit of water if you find the pan is dry during roasting.
• These can be made up to 8 hours ahead and kept at room temperature. Serve at room temperature or reheat in a 325 F oven for about 15 minutes.





Roasted Tomatoes

Serves 6

6 large Beefsteak Tomatoes, halved
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Topping
1/4 cup coarse fresh French bread crumbs
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme
2 tablespoons olive oil

1. Preheat the oven to 325 F. Oil a 9 x 13-inch ceramic baking dish. Arrange the tomatoes cut-side up so they fit snugly in the dish. Sprinkle the sugar over the tomatoes evenly. Drizzle the oil over the tomatoes and season with salt and pepper.

2. Roast for 1 1/2-1 3/4 hours or until browned and slightly shriveled. Halfway through, poke the tomatoes with a fork to help release some of the juices. Spoon the juices over the tomatoes a few times as they cook. After the tomatoes have cooked, remove the excess juices with a bulb baster into a small saucepan and reduce on medium heat for about 5 minutes or until slightly thickened. Reserve.

3. Combine the topping ingredients and taste for seasoning. After 1 1/2 hours, sprinkle the topping evenly over the tomatoes. Drizzle the olive oil on top, along with any reduced juices. Roast another 20-30 minutes or until the tomatoes are crusty golden brown. Serve immediately.

Friday, September 5, 2008

Puree Time

What a lovely week I have had. So here it is the end of summer and I am stuck eating puree of anything since I just had gum surgery. If there is anyone you want to put a hex on consider telling them that they should have gum surgery... painful, slow to heal and a bleak outlook of an endless array of bland purees.



I knew that one day my unbelievably powerful Vita Mix, a super blender that can turn anything into a creamy, thick puree, would come in handy for more than my husband's protein drinks. Somehow the Vita Mix makes soups truly creamy without the slightest bit of cream. I have had a field day checking out its powerful abilities that can turn bland zuchinni or sweet butternut squash into soups that would wow anyone. If you don't have a Vita Mix don't worry. Just use your blender... it may not be quite as creamy but not a problem.

Here you will find two of my favorite soups that you can enjoy now when you're feeling good or when you or your family have a dental moment that requires the famous term "soft food". You won't feel like you are being deprived once you taste these yummy, flavorful potions. Enjoy.



Puree of Vegetable Soup


This is a simple soup that is so satisfying you will enjoy it again and again. The inspiration for this soup comes from the famed La Scala restaurant in Beverly Hills that is more famous for its Chopped Salad than this rustic bowl of comfort. Called Ortolana, it is a colorful puree of vegetables.

The unusual ingredient here is the garbanzo beans that add an underlying earthy flavor as well as a natural thickener. Fully cooked garbanzos are added for just a few minutes before the soup is pureed to keep their flavor intact. The white Rose potato is used for its creamy consistency. To dress this up consider adding a dollop of Basil pesto or Sun-dried tomato pesto to the herb garnish. Cheese croutons would also be a good accompaniment.

Serves 4-6

2 tablespoons olive oil
3 leeks, cleaned light green part and white part, finely chopped (check out how to clean and cut a leek on an earlier blog below)
4 carrots, peeled and sliced
4 medium zucchini, sliced
3 medium (about 1 pound) white Rose potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
1 1/2 tablespoons tomato paste
6 cups chicken stock
1 cup cooked, drained and rinsed garbanzo beans
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley, for garnish
1 tablespoon finely chopped lemon zest, for garnish

  1. Heat oil in a large saucepan on medium heat. Add the leek and saute for about 5 minutes or until softened. Add the carrots, zucchini and potatoes and saute for about 3 more minutes or until mixed well and beginning to soften.
  2. Add the tomato paste and chicken stock and simmer, partially covered for about 30 minutes or until the vegetables are tender. Add the garbanzo beans and cook another 3 minutes or until heated through. Add the salt and pepper.
  3. Process the soup with a hand blender in the soup pot until pureed. Add the parsley and taste for seasoning.To serve: Ladle the soup into shallow soup bowls and garnish with the parsley and lemon rind.




Puree of Butternut Squash and Chestnut Soup with Chipotle Cream

I sometimes call this my Taste of Autumn soup, with its vibrant orange squash base and creamy nutty chestnut flavor. This combination of flavors, accented by a maple syrup sweet undertone and a swirl of smokey chipotle cream, really brightens up this ode to Autumn. I like to serve small mugs of this during the holidays when company arrives. It is not only beautiful to present, it really feels like a cup of comfort.

Serves 4-6

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 leeks, white part only, cleaned and finely chopped
1 pound peeled and diced butternut squash
1 (7 or 8) ounce bottle roasted or steamed chestnuts
2 garlic cloves, minced
4 cups chicken or vegetable broth
1 teaspoon maple syrup
salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Chipotle Cream

1 teaspoon chipotle puree or 1/4 teaspoon chipotle chili powder
1/2 cup creme fraiche or sour cream
salt and white pepper
2 tablespoons finely chopped chives, for garnish

1. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add leeks and sauté for 5 minutes, or until softened. Add the squash and chestnuts and cook 3 more minutes or until nicely coated. Add garlic and cook for another minute. Add the stock, syrup, salt and pepper, and mix together. Bring to a boil and then reduce the heat to medium low and, cover and simmer over medium heat for 20-25 minutes, or until the chestnuts are tender. Add the lemon juice.

3. Meanwhile make the chipotle cream: combine the chipotle puree with creme fraiche in a small bowl and mix to combine. Season with salt and taste for seasoning. Reserve.

2. Puree the soup in the pan with a hand blender or in a blender or food processor fitted with the metal blade. Return the soup to the pot if necessary. Taste for seasoning.

3.To serve, ladle the soup into heated bowls, swirl in a tablespoon of chipotle cream and garnish with chopped chives.

Advance Preparation: May be prepared up to 3 days in advance, covered and refrigerated. Reheat gently. This soup also freezes well. Adjust the seasonings when you reheat the frozen soup.

Clever Cook Tip: Chipotle Garlic Puree

I keep this spicy smoky flavor enhancer in my refrigerator. Add it to dressings, sauces or anything you want to have an undertone of smoky heat.

Makes about 1/4 cup

6 garlic cloves
1 can chipotle en adobo

1. In a food processor fitted with the metal blade process the garlic until it is minced. Add the chilies and process until totally pureed. Place in a air-tight container and refrigerate.

Advance Preparation: This may be prepared ahead and stored in the refrigerator for 1 month

Monday, September 1, 2008

Bundt® Cake Heaven: Two Great Options

Right after labor day I like to do a little baking. I used to send along slices of the cakes below in my daughter's lunch box but now that she is all grown up I still keep the tradition going with baking a home style Bundt® cake for friends who drop by. A cup of tea and slice of cake couldn't be a better way to end the afternoon or evening for that matter

As a French-trained chef, I never gave Bundt® cakes much attention. I would spend hours making fruit tarts with pastry cream and flaky pastry dough, chocolate European-style tortes, and praline soufflés. When I began my food-writing career, I was asked to develop a Bundt® cake story for a food magazine. From then on I had such fun coming up with creative renditions that they became my standby cake. The Glazed Lemon Sour Cream cake is the one that my daughter insists on for her birthday every year.

Well over a half a century ago the Bundt® pan was invented. There is some controversy over whether it was first introduced in the early 1900’s, as indicated in the Settlement Cookbook, or in the 1950’s by the president of Nordic cookware. Whoever invented this pan made a wonderful contribution to American baking.

The Bundt® pan is based on an Austrian kugelhopf design, featuring a hole in the center that allows for even baking. Bundt® cakes became very popular after the Tunnel of Fudge Bundt® Cake won second place in the 1966 Pillsbury Bake Off. With that accolade, the Bundt® cake became a regular fixture for home cooks who wanted to excel in the kitchen without spending an entire day there.

Since then, scores of different Bundt® cake pans like Fleur de Lis, castles, cathedrals, hearts, roses and even a fairy tale cottage shapes have become available. You can find one suited for just about any occasion. They all have in common a fluted bottom and sides that present a distinctive design when inverted.

This quick-to-prepare cake falls squarely within the Seriously Simple cooking philosophy. It is easy to put together and amazingly versatile. I find these tasty cakes bake up with a moist texture which is an added plus. Their shape is different from that of other cakes so they stand out in a crowd. A fine dusting of powdered sugar or a simple glaze drizzled on in a lacy pattern is all that is needed to finish the cake - no need for intricate butter creams or other time consuming frostings.

The Glazed Lemon Sour Cream Cake version is finished with a lemon glaze poured on while the cake is still warm yielding an extraordinarily pungent lemony moistness. Many recipes call for lemon juice in the cake, which seems to cause problems with texture. I finally experimented with lemon extract in the cake and fresh lemon juice for the glaze with an outstanding result, bursting with flavor.

The Mixed Berry Bundt® cake is great for an easy dessert or served in wedges for an early morning breakfast or midday brunch. Juicy berries add sweet fruit flavor to the simple butter cake batter. Make sure to pick berries that are not overripe or they won’t hold up well when baked.


Clever Cook Tips: These cakes are already easy to make, here are a few tips that will enhance to your experience even further:

• Use a lightweight nonstick Bundt pan for even cooking. If you use a heavyweight dark pan make sure to reduce the oven temperature by 25 degrees for even cooking and a moist result.
• Use a baker’s spray which contains both oil and flour. There are a number of brands available in the baking section of your market. This will help in releasing the cake after baking.
• Fill the pan about 3/4 full to avoid overflow.
• Cool the cake for at least 30 minute and then gently shake the pan from side to side listening for thumping. This indicates that the cake is loose and ready to invert. Carefully loosen the cake with a flexible knife( plastic or rubber) around the center tube and sides if sticking persists.
• Invert on a cooling rack; continue to cool. Dust with powdered sugar using a sifter or drizzle your favorite glaze on top.


Try either one (or both) of these cakes out and let me know what you think.



Glazed Lemon Sour Cream Cake

Serves 8 to 10

1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup unsalted butter at room temperature
1 cup sugar
3 large eggs at room temperature
1 tablespoon minced lemon zest
2 teaspoons lemon extract
1 cup sour cream

Glaze
1 1/2 cups powdered sugar
1/2 cup strained fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons finely chopped lemon zest

1. Grease and flour a 9-inch lightweight bundt pan. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Sift the flour, baking soda, and baking powder together in a medium mixing bowl. Set aside.

2. In a medium bowl with an electric mixer on medium speed or in a food processor fitted with the metal blade, beat the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Beat in the eggs, zest and lemon extract and mix for 2 more minutes.

3. Reduce the mixer to the lowest speed, add half the flour mixture, and mix until well combined. Add half the sour cream, mixing constantly, and then add the rest of the flour and sour cream, ending with the sour cream.

4. Pour the mixture into the prepared bundt pan and bake for about 35 to 40 minutes or until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in the pan for 30 minutes, then invert onto a cake rack.

5. Make the glaze: Using a wire strainer, sift the powdered sugar into a small nonaluminum bowl. Add the juice and lemon zest and whisk to break up any lumps.

6. Place the cake and the rack on a wax paper-lined rimmed baking sheet. Using a long skewer, poke holes in the cake almost going through the bottom at 1-inch intervals. Slowly pour the glaze over the cake, making sure that it’s absorbed as you pour. Let the cake come to room temperature. This can be prepared up to 3 days ahead and kept at room temperature, tightly covered. The cake can also be tightly wrapped and frozen in aluminum foil up to 2 months.


Mixed Berry Bundt Cake


Serves 8 to 10

5 eggs
1 + 2/3 cups sugar
2 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, softened to room temperature and cut into pieces
2 tablespoons Kirsch or other fruit liqueur
21/2 cups flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
Pinch salt
1 1/2 cups fresh raspberries
1 1/2 cups blueberries or blackberries
Powdered sugar, for the garnish

1. Grease and flour a 9" bundt pan. Preheat oven to 325F.

2. In large mixing bowl, blend eggs and sugar with an electric mixer on medium speed. Add pieces of butter and Kirsch or fruit liqueur and blend with an electric mixer until fluffy. Add all but 2 tablespoons of the flour (reserving the 2 tablespoons to coat the berries), baking powder and salt and mix until well incorporated, with no lumps.

3. In separate bowl, toss the berries with the remaining 2 tablespoons flour coating them evenly. Gently fold into cake mixture.

4. Pour into prepared pan. Bake for 1 hour or until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.

5. Cool 30 minutes in the pan. Invert cake onto a cake rack and cool thoroughly. Dust with powdered sugar. Place on a platter and serve. This can be made a day ahead, covered well and left at room temperature.

Thursday, August 21, 2008

A Summer Birthday Lunch

Hi All,

Well I have finally joined the blog set. I have been working on my website all summer with new recipes, videos, articles and product recommendations for all to see.
Thought you’d like to see a video so check this one out--- if you've ever wondered how to clean and cut a leek, take a look at this easy technique.


I have been trying out new recipes for my syndicated newspaper column and just enjoying the summer and all the great produce. Let’s face it--- a dinner of heirloom tomatoes, grilled marinated chicken and grilled vegetables makes life worth living…. A chilled summer Rose is the perfect accompaniment.

I cooked a birthday lunch for my dear friend that we enjoyed at the beach. Even a pro can sometimes have a tough time. I made a 12-inch chocolate cake and it fell apart when I unmolded it so I had to make it twice. According to all who attended it was worth cooking it twice! Here’s the menu with a few photos:

Iced Tea with Lemonade

Bellinis (Sparkling white wine with peach puree)

White Wine

Chicken Liver Mousse Pate with Currants and Pistachios

Crudite with Sun-dried Tomato Pesto Dip

Marcona Almonds

Slow-roasted Salmon with Mustard Sauce or Avocado, Cucumber and Dill Salsa

Heirloom Tomato, Burrata and Basil Platter


Green Bean, Sweet Peppers and Jicama Salad with Mustard-Lemon Vinaigrette


Orzo Salad with Corn, Cucumber, Radishes, Carrots and Goat Cheese with a Summer Herb Vinaigrette


Bread Bar Rolls

Dried Cherry and Kalamata Olive Oil Dipping Sauce


Sliced Fruit Platter

Chocolate Birthday Cake



...and finally, Coffee.



Enjoy the rest of the summer. See you next week.