You Say Tomato….Raw or Cooked There is Nothing Finer
Years ago I was asked to write a book on Potatoes for the Williams-Sonoma Collection. I was initially daunted with how I would come up with 50 recipes. As I worked on the book I discovered that the first 50 would turn out to be just a warm up for many more potato recipe discoveries. It’s the same way with tomatoes; the more recipes I develop the more I want to discover other ways to prepare them.
Fresh ripe tomatoes are the essence of Seriously Simple. Most varieties are at their height of flavor now. Whether it is in a zesty tomato salsa, a multi-colored tomato gazpacho, or as a first course, sliced and layered with fresh mozzarella and a drizzle of olive oil, the fresh raw summer tomato never disappoints. Recently I have found myself at the local farmers market excitedly perusing the tomato bins of different farmers. I love to taste the many varieties that are now available. Beefsteak still remain one of my favorites but now there are also heirlooms, offering exotic flavors and colors.
I find that using heirloom tomatoes are best prepared and served raw. Heirloom tomatoes are old-fashioned varieties that grow best in a small farm environment because they are more delicate. They have thinner skins and can’t take a lot of handling. They have a flavor profile with a spectrum from tart to super sweet. For pure fresh taste, there is nothing as good as a Zebra, Pineapple, Brandywine or Golden Jubilee heirloom tomato, sliced and sprinkled with sea salt and a fruity olive oil splash.
Beefsteak or Roma tomatoes hold up better for cooking. They have a tougher skin and can withstand high heat roasting, sautéing or grilling. The first time I ever tasted roasted tomatoes was at a restaurant called Tetou in a little town in the south of France named Juan les Pins. The meal is still vivid in my mind--- almost-burnt, caramelized tomatoes with a touch of thyme presented in a pottery gratin dish. This was a taste memory I just had to recreate. Through the years I have experimented with this dish and the following is the result of many experiments with oven roasted tomatoes. I have found that using a ceramic gratin dish like the kind made by Le Creuset or Staub gives the best results for evenly caramelized tomatoes.
You can serve these tomatoes for just about any meal. I like to serve these at a brunch alongside scrambled eggs. At a lunch I will serve them at room temperature along with other salads. For dinner they are a marvelous accompaniment to grilled fish, chicken or beef.
The Clever Cook Could:
• Select tomatoes that are vine-ripened for the best flavor.
• Remember to store tomatoes at room temperature. If they are not quite ripe, store them in a sunny place to hasten the ripeness.
• Tomatoes vary widely in the amount of juice they exude, so just add a bit of water if you find the pan is dry during roasting.
• These can be made up to 8 hours ahead and kept at room temperature. Serve at room temperature or reheat in a 325 F oven for about 15 minutes.
Roasted Tomatoes
Serves 6
6 large Beefsteak Tomatoes, halved
1 teaspoon sugar
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Topping
1/4 cup coarse fresh French bread crumbs
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme
2 tablespoons olive oil
1. Preheat the oven to 325 F. Oil a 9 x 13-inch ceramic baking dish. Arrange the tomatoes cut-side up so they fit snugly in the dish. Sprinkle the sugar over the tomatoes evenly. Drizzle the oil over the tomatoes and season with salt and pepper.
2. Roast for 1 1/2-1 3/4 hours or until browned and slightly shriveled. Halfway through, poke the tomatoes with a fork to help release some of the juices. Spoon the juices over the tomatoes a few times as they cook. After the tomatoes have cooked, remove the excess juices with a bulb baster into a small saucepan and reduce on medium heat for about 5 minutes or until slightly thickened. Reserve.
3. Combine the topping ingredients and taste for seasoning. After 1 1/2 hours, sprinkle the topping evenly over the tomatoes. Drizzle the olive oil on top, along with any reduced juices. Roast another 20-30 minutes or until the tomatoes are crusty golden brown. Serve immediately.
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